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70s top #4781

Project overview

Name 70s top #4781
Status in progress
Happiness
Started Aug 23, 2018
Completed
Progress 40 %
Privacy public
Notes I wanted to love this top. I really did.
I considered lengthening it to a dress but decided to keep it as a top and maybe make trousers or a skirt I the same fabric.

I've obviously not finished it yet. I may not finish it or I may just recut parts and hope for the best.

The issue I have is that the bust line sits right OVER the boobs, just like a bad fitting RTW top does.
Due to another top doing this I changed my bust from high to low on the personal setting hoping this would help (I honestly don't think that my bust sits low, my breasts finish well before my elbow starts! Also my bras hold them high, so listen to me;

LEKALA YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR PATTERNS WHEN ADJUSTED FOR LARGER BUSTS.

I decided to use Lekala so I could get patterns to fit without having to do a FBA and then adjust again for a small waist, but if this issue happens with almost every pattern I'll give up with anything that isn't a stretch pattern.

I have put a piece of tape on one of the photos so you can see where my bust line is.
You can also see in the last photo how the seam line sits just under my nipples. To get it to sit under my bust I'll need to raise my breasts to my armpits!

Users Comments

  • JdT

    I love your fabric. If you have enough definitely cut a lower chest part and replace old short piece with the lengthened one.
    I also have issues since I lost some weight, under a certain circumference the scaling fails: on several patterns they scale down my back but leave the front piece larger size..... I recommend you always make a toile (I do)
    Also in the technical drawing this model looks like the seam line under the bust is not fitted close to the body but just hanging there like empire. If this is the case maybe they did not calculate to add the lower length of the breast, maybe it is just that the model is not supposed to be so fitted?
    I am curious, I have put this on my list. I have long torso, small sizes, I will tell you how it went for me.

  • Alpine Queen

    On standard patterns, I know that my bust line is 1"/2.5 cm lower. And I know that for an empire style, like this one, the return under the boobs is around 3". So if there are no markings, I need to measure from the shoulder to the bust point, add 3", and then measure the pattern. If I have to add some length, I curve it back at the side seam, as I am not unusually sized there.

    I myself have not gotten far enough with Lekala to test what their computer needs, and it may never totally get a D cup bust. Nobody else does, either, so dealing is just a fact of life. Maybe my personal needs can help you adjust for your own. It's definitely a challenge, but learning how to make those adjustments can really enhance the end result!

  • Anne-Marie Dionne

    I hope you will find a way to make your top to your liking. This fabric is too amazing! I don't think it looks that bad, really! However, is there a posibility of adding a little bit of length by adding a band under the bustline?

  • Naomi

    I just read more carefully that you tried the custom options. Perhaps this style doesn't scale up in a flattering way? I also suspect the new patterns sometimes have little glitches that get worked out after they've been downloaded a few times.

  • Naomi

    If you have this issue with all your patterns, it might be worth trying some of the optional adjustments. You can add high/low bust point, narrow shoulders etc. You can test these out on the free pattern until the fit seems right, then save your adjustments.